T-shirt c/o VOW, Kaarme "Gemini" studded cutoffs, vintage David Ackerman boots, Skingraft talon bag, pink druzy ring c/o Hard Candy Gems, "split" stone ring c/o Union Studio, earrings c/o Vanessa Mooney, bracelet via eBay, all other rings vintage sterling.
VOW makes the best destroyed tees. I received this super soft one awhile back, which is part of their second collection. If destroyed is not your jam, VOW also offers non-destroyed versions of all of their designs.
It's been way, waaay too long -- forgive me. I've made a little promise to myself (and a Japanese fashion magazine) that I will NOT forget my camera when I walk out the door every day, so look forward (or dread, whatever) to a little kick in this blog's ass in terms of posting frequency.
I don't like hallucinating; I'm one of those people who would get stuck in the "I'm Never Coming Back" zone, bug out, and just tremble in a corner whilst sucking my thumb. However, I do love me some L.S.D.. Little Sister Designs are so versatile and easy to wear, but also have that element of macabre quirkiness that is difficult to achieve. I think I've said this before, but I'm going to say it again anyway: L.S.D. always make people do a double-take, and it's super fun. It's kind of like the same sensation I had as a kid when I would walk into school with a mouse or a newt in my pocket ... Ms. Burkhart's pieces make the wearer feel like they own this little special secret. At this moment I feel far from eloquent, so I'll STFU and let the pictures do the talking. This necklace is my new appendage -- it is beautifully crafted and makes a statement without MAKING A FUCKING STATEMENT. Obviously I have no problem with the latter, but it is nice to own a piece that falls into my "understated" category.
The vertebrae ring (a matching necklace is also available) has also been a staple for me lately. Sterling blackener is meticulously applied in such a way that the tiny bone has sort of a lovely gemstone-ish affect. The bright silver parts of the piece have an unexpected matte finish which is my personal favorite element of the design. The ease of mix-and-matching is a quality that literally all of my L.S.D. pieces possess; they're just really complimentary paired with everything from highly polished sterling or white gold, to powder-coated brass and tarnished sterling.
I don't know if I ever explained the reason behind my obsession with teeth on this blog. In a nutshell, I suffered a blunt force trauma injury as a kid that knocked out my two front teeth, the bone surrounding them, and the gum line. Nearly ten years of oral surgery and a partial denture later, I ended up with titanium implants (aka fake teeth you can't take out). But I'll never forget the image of my two front teeth laying in a pool of blood, on the cement dock of a whale-watching boat. It was night time, and, as Hannibal Lecter says, blood in the moonlight "... appears quite black." My teeth had been knocked out whole and I was surprised by their largeness and all of their little parts that I never knew existed in my ten-year-old mouth. In the shock of the impact, before my father scooped them up and put them in the breast pocket of his shirt, there was a nanosecond in which the teeth looked almost beautiful as they gleamed in the black pool, and I was numb. Thus my preoccupation with teeth -- human teeth, to reaffirm my freakishness. Surprise though, this super weird story is actually relevant: many of L.S.D. utilize sterilized human teeth, and those pieces IMHO are very special. It's like owning a vintage piece of costume jewelry and imagining the old biddy who wore it on her wrinkled hand as she drank dry martinis, but just a *bit* more primitive. Every tooth is completely different. Some have fillings. Some are pristine. I don't know how Ms. Burkhart obtains the teeth for her designs, but they are all pretty ingenious. I'll stop my rambling with this:
For a limited time, Lotte Burkhart is offering a generous 25% discount on all of the pieces offered in the L.S.D. webshop. Just use the code blogger25 and do like a bull in a china shop with that shit.
The fine folks over here at Käärme have re-stocked the previously sold out KAAOS shirt, and it has undergone a makeover. KAAOS 2.0 (limited to only 20 pieces) has the sleeves chopped off and has been tie-dyed with black, which gives it a nice "dirty" orange hue. I thought the teal Margiela bag was totally appropriate with the shirt, as it is color-treated in the same fashion. Anyway, KAAOS 2.0 will be available in the Käärme shop soon, but in the meantime if you are in critical need, you can purchase one by shooting us an email at kaarme.concepts@gmail.com.
Ahh, my David Ackerman boots ... by far the finest ebay purchase I have ever made, next to my Phi lace-ups. On the subject of shoes, I have an exciting new member of the family to share. But that is for the next post. This one took me an exhaustingly, embarrassingly long time to assemble, for some reason. I am pretty rusty. Thanks for sticking around! &hearts
Not much else to highlight in this post except for this exquisite jacket. Bobby and I were both very generously sent these gorgeous, soft buffalo leather beauties from Straight to Hell. Bobby opted for the Defector, a classic British style moto jacket in the black with red trim color scheme. After much deliberation, I went for my least-obvious pick: the Offender, a classic cafe-style moto jacket in a stunning gray leather.
You can't beat these jackets; they are simply matchless. The buffalo leather is top-notch quality, the company uses NO cheap hardware, and 2 of the zipper pulls (the main one and the left inside pocket) are steel bottle openers, onto which STRAIGHT TO HELL is stamped with pride. Once Bobby and I put on our jackets for the first time, it was obvious to us why everyone from Iggy Pop to Slash wear only Straight to Hell leathers.
All of Straight to Hell leather jackets have the red lining and are very lightly quilted, so they break in very easily. One problem I've always had with unisex leather jackets is that the shoulders are too wide on me, and it looks horrible. The people at STH helped us pick out what sizes we needed with utmost patience, and as soon as they arrived and we put them on, we knew we would never need to buy another leather moto jacket ever again. They fit perfectly. Bobby will be sporting his in the June (hits stands in may) issue of Decibel magazine. He will also be on the cover of that issue, so keep your eyes peeled come early May.
Straight to Hell's sister company is Full Breach 77. Full Breach offers the largest selection of obscure, original puck rock (pre-'88) and rock n roll band t-shirts I've ever seen. The designs are colorful, and whether it's Bo Diddly or the Runaways you're looking for, Full Breach have it printed on a 100% cotton t-shirt. The best part: they're roughly $13-$16 a piece. I loved this hideously yellow Thin Lizzy print; although Jailbreak is obviously not my favorite album (for the record, it's Black Rose), I couldn't resist the Japanese lettering or Phil's trademark afro and those sad, sad eyes. He was a beautiful man.
Josh, the founder of both Straight to Hell Apparel and Full Breach 77, was kind enough to not only send us a boxload of precious gifts, but also grant me an interview for Halcoholic. When we got these jackets, our first question was: how does this company sell these perfectly crafted jackets for 1/4 of the price of many lesser-quality leather jackets from only slightly more popular companies, and why? If Hall of Fame rock 'n rollers are wearing STH jackets, why aren't they jacking their prices? Is this small company that legitimately dedicated to many working-class punk rock customers who can't afford a $2500 leather jacket? Josh graciously answered all of my questions in detail, from starting Full Breach in 2002 bored and broke in Chicago and working on his hands and knees to screen print shirts, to traveling to Japan in 2009 in order to launch Straight to Hell. Josh spoke with a down-to-earth humility and readiness: cut and dry, no "elitist punk" bullshit, and an inner authenticity that most people simply do not possess. You just have to respect that.
1. When did you first launch Full Breach 77 and Straight to Hell and what is some history? Full Breach 77 started in 2002 making original punk rock t-shirts. We were punk rockers in our 20s, sitting around in our Chicago apartment in the hood of Humboldt Park, bored and broke. I had a rough job at a video store whose name shall not be mentioned cause they are horrible, and my upstart partner at the time, partner in rock and roll and partner in crime, well he was struggling to make it as a chef. Must have been late winter or early spring. I remember that apartment well because the cops would pull ya over just for walking home, even during the day. They thought you were in that neighborhood to buy drugs.
Many punk rockers have tried their hands at screen printing their band's t-shirts, so that's really all it was about. Making art, making offensive imagery on a t-shirt, and giving it to our friends. We were printing on our hands and knees with a "borrowed" gas station squeegee and the underside of a welcome mat bought at Ace down the street. Hey our friends like our designs. Really? Cool! Okay let's start a website. What's a website? It probably went something like that. And then cheers-ing our PBRs together. Oh yeah we need a name. How about Full Breach. Like when the swat team bursts into somewhere, full speed and guns ready and dead serious. "FULL BREACH FULL BREACH!!!" And we are pretty influenced by 77 punk rock and all the bands from that era. Dead Boys, Thunders, Ramones, and of course the early English bands. That style, that aesthetic, that sound, that attitude. That's punk rock to me. Of course now in 2011, punk has so many white-washed meanings, but that's another story. To me it's really now about rock and roll in general, real rock and roll - music, attitude, aesthetic, lifestyle. When I was a kid the guitar teacher told me my fingers were too small to fit around a guitar. Well fuck you - I'll still be involved in music. Ain't going anywhere.
We had our record label Full Breach Kicks from 2005 - 2009. Natural progression. Spend what we make on t-shirts and give it back by releasing records. I say give it back because that's about the time the music biz was dying, just no one told us, so it was very hard to break even on a record release. From a business standpoint, a record label is the worst idea ever. From a personal standpoint, it's a great idea and can be very fulfilling - for a bit. Then it's just makes you jaded. Done with it.
Oh yeah. Small thing, no not really... ee went to Japan around 2002 and hooked up with a Japanese company selling Japanese leather jackets here in Chicago and on our website. Fast forward to 2009. Straight To Hell is launched. We wanted to do a full apparel line and to do it right and make and design killer items. Name taken from a great Clash song of course. Personally I've been wearing leather jackets for 16 years, so I know what a good, snug fitting awesome rock and roll leather jacket should be like. The aesthetic of a biker jacket meets the attitude of rock and roll and punk.
2. What was your initial motivation for starting a clothing line that promotes many bands that a lot of people don't know about, i.e. The Saints? Was it personal interest to have shirts you couldn't find elsewhere, the desire to spread the word about "true" punk rock, a combination of both, or something else? Spreading the word and representing what we were and are about for sure. Trying to get people into the good stuff. Shit music is so accessibly these days, if you're not really a musical person, if you are a weekend warrior desk jockey type, you're not gonna be digging around in the underground getting dirty trying to find good counter culture stuff that can change your life, then you're just not gonna find good music. Hey not everyone has the will or desire or need to go out there on their own and discover something, to be an individual. I'm a weirdo so I've been screwed from the jump. Gotta go out there and be independent. Too much ADHD to sit behind a desk and be a yes man. When I was a kid they told me I had ODD - Oppositional Defiant Disorder. Really, no shit, that's my excuse? Cool... The other night I was DJing at a rock bar here in Chicago that has a stripper pole in the back and a chick comes up and requests "stripper music she can dance on the pole to - like Rihanna". And I'm here playing "Satisfaction" by the Stones at volume 11. Really? I ask her if she knows how many people have fucked to and probably stripped to the Stones before, and she says that's her parents music. It's that attitude by so many people that makes me never wanna be like that. That ignorance. At least when it comes to good rock and roll baby!
3. I know FB77 and STH are small companies; is there a reason why you keep your designs so exclusive, with very little wholesale? We do actually wholesale out to some really cool stores. Trash and Vaudeville in NYC and Angry, Young, and Poor in Lancaster, PA are our buds. Trash is on St. Marks Place and has been around since the mid-1970s. Super cool people work there and they know what's up. Oldest and coolest rock and roll store ever. AYP are great too, they really know punk. These are the places we relate to. We do sell to a few others stores, but FB77 is so genre-specific that you can only do so much with it. On the other hand, STH has cross-over appeal and all types of people, rockers or not, dig our designs. So stores get in touch! It's a rough economy out there, the Man is trying to take over, wall street screwed over the middle class. Sounds like reasons to support the underground!
4. What do you feel sets Straight to Hell leather jackets apart from any other jackets? Easy question and the most important. It's all about the fit. Our jackets are designed by rockers, so you're gonna get that perfect fit. If ya buy a thrift store leather jacket, you never know what you're gonna get. And if ya buy some cheap jacket, than that's what you'll get. And if ya buy a nice leather jacket from a large name-brand company, then you're still probably gonna get baggy arms or a bunchy back. Our jackets fit like a glove, and the high quality buffalo leather is amazing and soft and breaks in super nice. Top that off with cool detailing, multiple colors and styles, and red lining with a dangling metal Straight To Hell bottle opener attached to the inside zipper pocket, then you're in business! First drink's on me. And you'll be supporting an independent, do-it-yourself label.
5. You use high-quality leather and hardware on the STH jackets; is there any reason why you price them so reasonably, when people are purchasing large brand name leather jackets of lesser quality for quadruple the price? We use the best buffalo leather out there. The leather is great and stretches and conforms around your shape and breaks in perfectly, with a vintage leather jacket look and feel in just a few months of wear. A good leather jacket should be a staple in a wardrobe, and it becomes part of you. It's like that perfect pair of jeans you always wear. That's why when I see these jackets out there with so much going on, I don't get it. Classic and simple is always best. We price them at a place that rocker folks can hopefully afford. A punk rock kid in high school can get one and a rocker in a successful band or whatever can get one too. Just examples. It's important for us to have all these types of people wearing our jackets. The price is where it's at so we can continue as a business and grow, and also so it can appeal, at least financially, to all types of people. Thank you for saying they are priced reasonably, because it really bothers me when people say they are too expensive. Which happens. These people have no idea what kind of expenses businesses accrue, they just want something to hate on. Ours our around $250 depending on where you purchase it. A new and comparable leather jacket will run ya around $450 up to even a grand or more. We are not trying to be some exclusive, high-end fashion label. We want folks to wear our jackets, not just trendy people with money. Although we'll take them too, ha ha.
the Defector jacket in black.
6. What sort of individual do you picture wearing FB77 shirts and STH leather jackets? Anyone reading this. If ya dig the shirts then go for it, and our jackets appeal to all types, so they're killer for anyone in any style or culture. A good leather jacket is timeless and wearable at all occasions, whether riding a motorcycle or going to a show or wearing every day! And all the celebrity rags and fashion magazines are now saying leather jackets are cool! So ya gotta do what you're told! If Justin Bieber is on the cover of Rolling Stone rocking a leather, than it's cool right? Naw just kidding, but in reality our leather jackets are classic designs and timeless and appeal to people who either ride a motorcycle of course or who want that cool street or rocker look. Nuff said.
7. What can people look forward to see in the future from your lines? Anything new, or are you planning on sticking to the stand-bys that have worked well for you up to this point? We are working on denim right now. It's been a long road with this, because we are very specific. When it's out it's gonna be amazing. Men's and women's with a great tight fit in multiple colors and washes. The James and The Judy. Also we are working on slim-fit polos. Bad Man polos. Are polos only for preppies? Tennis and golf and cricket? Good boys with civilized manners? We say no! This is for the bad man. This is for you.
8. If you could have one "famous" person wear a STH jacket, who would it be, and what style/color combo would you choose? Interesting... well I would say Sarah Palin. Make her wear the jacket 24/7. Confuse everyone cause that's what she does anyway. Put her in the pink Defector. Now that would be funny. How about Alice Cooper. That would be awesome. Iggy Pop and Slash already have jackets, that's pretty cool.
9. Where do you see your companies five years from now? Just rollin' with it and keeping rockin' and staying positive and we'll see what happens and hopefully people respond well.
10. Anything else? Just a thank you to you for your time and your support and for your killer blog. Thanks for everyone's support and shout out to our friends and family. Today is Johnny Cash's b-day so I'm off to the bar to spin some tunes.
vintage Angel tour shirt, vintage David Ackerman platform boots, Alexadra Cassaniti money bag, vintage flannel, Blood Milk butterfly knife necklace, vintage bangles, Betsey Johnson peacock ring, Lucky Brand copper/turquoise snake ring, Ray Ban aviators.
At the suggestion of Jayne (of Stop it Right Now), I recently acquired this canvas & leather money bag by Alexandra Cassaniti, which is basically the best thing I own.
The long leather strap can either be left clipped to the base so you can wear it as a backpack, or unclipped and it turns into a drawstring shoulder or crossbody bag. Words can't describe the hard-on I have for this bag -- thank you, Jayne!
I can't even tell you how long it took me to find an Angel shirt, but I'll have this one forever. Bobby and I fight over this Betsey Johnson peacock ring, which was a gift from my mother two birthdays ago.
Loving my vintage David Ackerman boots, as always.
All photos by JF &hearts
Angel are/were Casablanca's "white" version of KISS and, like Pentagram, were formed in the D.C. area in the 70s. Although my favorite Angel album is 1976's Helluva Band, which is more progressive than glam, their most notable release is probably 1977's On Earth As It Is In Heaven:
"That Magic Touch," off of On Earth As It Is In Heaven. The only thing I don't like about this song is the weird fade-out in the end; they should've just closed it with a lead, but whatever. I still fucking love this band.
My dear friend Amanda and I are going to the Maryland Deathfest tomorrow. Pentagram hits the stage at 7:30 PM. Say hi if you see us there! xo
My outfit today was pretty boring since the heat has prevented me from wearing anything out of the ordinary ... but it sure as shit couldn't prevent me from wearing these spectacular vintage David Ackerman leopard print boots.
Worn with Sham 69 t-shirt, Zara cutoffs, Jas M.B. leather clutch/belt, custom Ray Ban aviators, Chanel ivory cocktail ring & other custom sterling accessories.
Born in 1972, these boots were a crazy good eBay score I managed to snag for a very reasonable price. I don't know too much about David Ackerman or if he designed anything other than footwear, but when I saw these I fell in love. The platform-to-heel ratio makes for a very comfortable walk, too. This style of shoe would be a good choice for someone just starting to learn how to walk in heels; it doesn't look like it, but it's pretty much impossible to trip in these.
The craftsmanship on these boots is incredible. The leather is all hand-stitched and the interior of the shaft is fully-lined and printed with this weird 70s motif. The zippers and other hardware are of superior quality. The soles are stamped "David Ackerman, Paris." If anyone has additional info on this designer, I'd love to hear it!
I wonder who was the original owner of these beauties back in the early 70s ... ?
I just recently dug up this old Motorhead necklace from my jewelry junk pile. The pendant I purchased on eBay many years ago, and the steel chains I found at some thrift shop around the same time. Pros: a neat conversation-inducing statement piece. Cons: the pendant isn't double-sided, so it constantly needs to be flipped over. Oh well! I'd also like to reiterate with the same disclaimer I posted yesterday that I, my husband, his colleagues and his friends do not endorse any anti-Christian ideals; the earring was simply a gift.
JF came over yesterday to pick up my hair clippers, and he brought over a bunch of his old t-shirts for me since a lot of mine no longer fit. Thank you, Josh &hearts This Sham 69 one I think I might've given him for Christmas 5-6 years ago. Obviously then it wasn't worn thin and full of holes, but that's the way I've always liked my t-shirts, anyway.
Red lipstick totally changes the look of one's face, huh? I personally prefer without, but I felt the boots called for something similarly garish.
This Jas M.B. bag is an extremely multi-functional piece; the strap can be removed for it to be carried as a clutch, or left on and you have the option to wear it in your belt buckles. The latter utilization came very much in handy the last few days on tour, when I had to work merch and needed someplace to store the cash. Like all other Jas M.B. leather products, you get a lot of bang for your buck.
Even though they're SO not seasonally-appropriate, you'll be seeing these again very soon.
Sham 69 on Top of the Pops performing "Angels With Dirty Faces" from the 1978 That's Life LP. "Angels With Dirty Faces" reached #19 on the UK singles chart that year; an unusual feat for a punk band of that era.
I'm planning a custom jewelry giveaway for this week with potential for two different winners, so keep checking back .. and as always, thank you for all of the continued support. xo
